Candle Making Tutorial
Basic Votive Candle Making Instructions
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Copyright 2003-2004 CandleHelp.com
These are
instructions for beginners who have never made a votive candle before. There
are no chemical additives, added steps, or advanced candle making techniques in
these instructions. Just fun and simple instructions to get you making your own
votive candles. You can have new votive candles to enjoy in about 2 hours from
start to finish!
So gather
your supplies, set up your work area, and follow these simple instructions for
making your own votive Candles.
What
You Will Need - Supplies
Votive
Candle Wax
1 or
more votive candle molds
Votive
Wick
o
Either pre-tabbed
votive wick or
o
34-24
Cotton Core Waxed wick and wick
clips
Silicone
Mold Release Spray (optional)
Steamer
Pot or old
Sauce Pan to create a double boiler
Standard
Size or Small
Size Melting Pot with pour spout
Wood
Stir Sticks,
chopsticks, or something else to stir the wax
Thermometer
Scissors
Candle
Fragrance
(optional)
Color
Dye Chips
(optional)
Also a
good idea to have around:
Paper towels
Windex (Window
cleaner)
Aluminum Foil
Newspaper,
butcher paper, or scrap paper to cover work surfaces
Fire
Extinguisher (just in case)
How to
Set Up Your Work Area
- Put
down newspaper or butcher paper on tables and countertops to catch spills
and for easy cleanup.
- Have
paper towels and Windex on hand for cleaning stovetops.
- Wrap
stove burner bowls in tin foil to catch drips of wax, and for easy cleanup
afterwards.
Preparing
Your Votive Molds
- Spray
inside of the votive
mold with silicone
mold release spray, if you are using it. To do this follow the
directions on the Silicone Mold Release Spray, or hold the spray nozzle 8
to 10 inches from the votive mold and spray the inside with one or two
short bursts.
- Place votive
mold open end up on the work surface, make sure it is a FLAT
LEVEL SURFACE
- If you are tabbing your own wicks,
do that now. For instructions of how to tab a wick, visit our section on How To Tab A Wick
- Place
tabbed votive wick inside the votive
mold. Try to get them at center, although during pour they will
probably shift to one side a little.
Prep
your votives before pouring the wax
- NOTE: Some candle makers prefer to
pour the wax first and place the pre-tabbed wick in the votive mold right
after the wax is poured. The choice is yours. We advocate the
pre-placement of wicks in the votive molds to reduce the chance of wax
overflow and drips from the votive mold.

Melting The Votive Candle Wax
You will
need either a steamer
pot or deep sauce pan, and you will also need a melting
pot with a pouring spout. These two items create a double boiler to
melt down your wax.
A simple double boiler using an old sauce pan and a meting pot with a spout.
Fill the
bottom part of your double boiler (the steamer
pot or the deep sauce pan) with about two inches of cool water, and
place on the burner set to high temperature. Place pieces of wax to be melted
into the melting
pot with a pouring spout, set the melting
pot in the water, and attend to it as the wax liquefies. (When the
water begins to boil, turn the heat down to medium low or low.)
If you
have a large block of wax and need instructions on how to safely break it into
smaller pieces, please visit our section on How To
Break Up Wax Blocks
When the
wax is entirely liquid (i.e., when there are no solid chunks any longer in the
pot) you have successfully melted the wax.
Our 130
degree votive candle wax melts at about 130 degrees F. The wax will continue to
grow hotter as it remains in the double boiler. The temperature of the wax
should get to 190 degrees F.

Adding
Dye
After the
wax is entirely melted and at about 190 degrees F, add your candle
dye, if you are using any. Each of our diamond
shaped dye chips colors 1 lb of wax. Use more or less for lighter or
darker colored candles. Drop a dye chip (or part of a dye chip) into the melted
wax, and stir until the wax chip is entirely dissolved.
Adding
Fragrance
Adding
fragrance is the last thing you do before you pour the candle. This is because
the potency of the fragrance can be reduced if subjected to high heat for too
long.
After the
wax is entirely melted, and after you have added candle
dye (if you are using candle
dye), add your candle
fragrance, if you are using any. The standard ratio for our candle
fragrance oils is one ounce of fragrance oil per 1 lb of wax. Use
more or less for lighter or heavier scented candles. Add the candle fragrance
to the melted (and colored, if you are making colored candles) wax in the
melting pot, and stir thoroughly to get even distribution of the candle
fragrance.
NOTE:
Excessive fragrance oil usage can damage plastic molds. If you are using a
plastic mold for this project, please do not overdo the fragrance oil.
Pouring
The Candles
The ideal
pouring temperature for votives is 175 degrees F, so you will need to remove the
double boiler from the heat source to allow the wax to cool to 175 degrees F
(170 to180 degrees F is an acceptable temperature range for pouring votive
candles). However, we are making simple, stress free votives here, so dont
spend too much time worrying about the temperature of the candle wax before you
pour it. (My favored method for votives is to wait to pour until I can just
begin to see the wax solidifying (congealing) on the inside surface of the melting
pot.)
You need
a spouted
container to pour votives. You can also use a wood
stirring stick or a chopstick for added pouring control to reduce
dribbles.

To
check temperature of wax, immerse thermometer in wax, taking care not to let it
touch the bottom of the melting pot.
Pour:
Fill the votive
mold up to the rim with wax. Be sure to save about 20% of your
melted wax for the second pour you will make after the candles set.

1st
pour for a votive candle with wick placed before pouring the wax.

Using the
2nd method for votive mold prep, you dont place the wick until
after the first pour.
Set:
After making the first pour of wax into the votive
molds, let the votives stand undisturbed while the wax shrinks and
they cool completely. It generally takes a votive about an hour to an hour and
a half (my experience is usually no longer than 2 hours, although some people
report cool times of up to 4 hours) for the wax in the mold to cool and shrink.

As the
votive cools in the mold, the wax shrinks creating a depression in the center
around the wick.
2nd
Pour: The second pour is made after the wax in the votive
candle mold has cooled completely. The reason for making a second
pour (pouring more wax into the mold after the first pour wax has cooled) is
that the wax from the first pour will have shrunk into a sink-hole around the
wick. This is normal, as wax expands when melted and contracts when it cools.

The 2nd
pour of a votive candle fills the depression in the center of the candle where
the wax has shrunk.
To make
the second pour for a votive candle, re-heat the remaining wax and pour it into
the depression of the cooled wax in the votive
candle mold.
NOTE: Some people like the re-pour wax temperature to be about 10 to 15
degrees hotter than the temperature of the initial pour wax. This is a matter
of style and although it is reported by some that this method aids adhesion of
the 2nd pour wax to the first pour wax, it is completely optional.
Beginning votive candle makers need not worry over this, as all the votives
will end up in a votive candle holder and, as votive candles do, liquefying as
they burn.
When
making the second pour, fill the votive
mold up to the rim, and just a bit higher, taking care not to fill
it so much that wax dribbles over the edge.
The
correct level of wax for the 2nd pour of a votive creates the slight
lip at the top of a votive.
Wait
another hour or so for the candle to completely cool in the votive
mold, and then remove the votive from the mold.
Before burning the candle, trim the wick to 14 (our pre-tabbed votive wicks
generally run a little long, so you will likely need to trim the wick down to
14 before burning your new votive)

Trim
the wicks on your votive candles to 14 before burning.
Here are some helpful tips for getting a votive out of a votive
candle mold:
If you have
used silicone
mold release spray, and the candle is completely cool, you should
only have to turn the votive
mold upside down and shake it a little to get the candle to fall
right out into your hand
If you didnt
use silicone
mold release spray, try just turning it over and shaking it. If it
doesnt come out into your hand easily, try twisting the candle in the mold
to loosen it.
If that does
not work, then drop the candle-filled votive
mold into a large glass of warm water and leave it alone. It will
eventually be set free by the water and float to the surface.

That is
it, you are finished making your votive candle!

About
Your Finished Candles Remember:
Never burn a
candle unattended
Votives need
to be burned on votive holders
Before you
burn your new votives, put a little bit of water and a couple drops of liquid
dish soap in the bottom of the holder.
When the votive is finished burning, the wax shell will pop out easily, so you
can recycle it again!